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Associate Professor Deb Cumming

Associate Professor

School of Design

My research portfolio is aligned with sustainable fashion design and inclusive design practice with social and cultural impact. My practice-based research investigates the development of innovative one-piece pattern design disrupting conventions of traditional apparel design production. One-piece pattern design can be utilised as a sustainable practice to address textile waste, minimise apparel production, and facilitate post-consumer regeneration design. This research has been profiled in national and international symposiums and exhibitions, and is useful serving postgraduate PHD and MDes supervisions and examinations.

Inclusive apparel design research has led to design consultancy, national and international commercial product development. An Operational Hijab design was developed to meet the needs of Muslim New Zealand policewomen to promote positive action for inclusion, respect and identity within the organization.  Further samples fhave been developed for UK Leistershire Police, Victoria Police, Queensland Police, Hamburg Police, Canadian Border Security, Canadian Police, NZ Department of Corrections, NZ St Johns Ambulance. This design has been requested for three national museum archives. This design work was awarded 2021 50 most influential projects and 4th most influential project in the Asia-Pacific region by Project management Institute of New York. The hijab design was awarded the prestigious Royal Society Te Apārangi’s Tahunui-a Rangi award.  Other contract work commissioned by New Zealand Police, involved the development of national Mess Kit designs, formal uniform for senior New Zealand Policewomen. Design development of this capsule uniform collection offered new contemporary design choices and inclusive fit for women. Both these research outcomes have generated income to fund other projects, student scholarship and increase income for a design manufacturing business, a locally owned apparel company by Massey design graduate. 

Deb Cumming is a fashion researcher and academic. Her research is aligned with inclusive and sustainable fashion design practice with technical design applications that address broader social and cultural issues.

The central focus of her research is alternative apparel design pattern methods. Practice-based research investigates the development of one-piece pattern design through adaptive drape and digital technologies to advance apparel design and manufacturing processes. Research areas extend to commercial application with design consultancy, and product development.

Current academic practices move across both undergraduate and postgraduate fashion and design fields, creative practice-led, or research by project degrees.

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Professional

Prizes and Awards

  • Hijab Design nominated for the prestigious Royal Society Te Apārangi’s Tahunui-a Rangi award - New Zealand Royal Society (2022)
  • Hijab design work was awarded the 50 most influential projects in the world and 4th most influential project in the Asia-Pacific region - Project management Institute of New York. (2021)
  • Operational Hijab design was a finalist in NZ Best Awards for Public Good - Designers Institute of New Zealand (2021)

Research Expertise

Research Interests

Fashion Design and adaptive technologies

Alternative Drape and pattern processes

Inclusive Design

Thematics

Design – for Commerce, Community and Culture, Health and Well-being

Area of Expertise

Field of research codes
Built Environment And Design (120000): Design Innovation (120302): Design Management and Studio and Professional Practice (120303): Design Practice and Management (120300): Textile and Fashion Design (120306)

Keywords

Inclusive and sustainable Apparel Design

Alternative Apparel pattern design technology

Fashion design, Drape and Patternmaking 

Colonial New Zealand Sports Dress 

 

Research Outputs

Journal

Li, Z., Kane, F., & Cumming, D. (2025). Mobius Band Seamless 3D Whole-Garment Weaving Method. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practise. 13(1-2), 86-121 Retrieved from https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/20511787.2025.2590808
[Journal article]Authored by: Cumming, D., Kane, F.
Li, Z., Cumming, D., Kane, F., & Prescott, S. (2025). Use of the Mobius Band structure to challenge 2D flat origins in zero-Waste patternmaking for fashion. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education. Latest Articles, 1-14 Retrieved from https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17543266.2025.2480787
[Journal article]Authored by: Cumming, D., Kane, F.
Cumming, D., & Brimer, C. (2025). Fashion Design Process. Scope: Contemporary Research Topics. art&design 28(Fashion), 75-83 Retrieved from https://thescopes.org/assets/Uploads/17-SCOPE_28_Fashion_Cumming_Brimer-DP.pdf
[Journal article]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2022). Inclusivity and Diversity: NZ Operational hijab design development. Context dress/fashion/textiles. 44, 24-29
[Journal article]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2019). One-piece pattern cutting: contoured active-wear. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education. 12(2019), 261-271 Retrieved from https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17543266.2019.1587790
[Journal article]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2017). A case study engaging design for textile upcycling. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice. , 113-128 Retrieved from http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/rftd20
[Journal article]Authored by: Cumming, D.

Creative Work

Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2025, July 2). Operational Hijab exhibit. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa, Tongarewa, New Zealand..
[Exhibition]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2025). Operational Hijab (Apparel sample developed and refined fit for new police recruitment), New Zealand Police..
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2025). Operational Hijabs (Apparel samples developed for research wear testing), Canada Border Services Agency | Government of Canada..
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2024, March 15). Operational Hijab national exhibit. New Zealand Police Museum, New Zealand..
[Exhibition]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2024, February 21). Operational Hijab exhibit. Tuhura Otago Museum, New Zealand.
[Exhibition]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2024). Operational Hijab (research development samples),Victoria Police, Australia..
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2023). Operational Hijab (Commercialized apparel).
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2023). Operational Hijab (Commercialized apparel).
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2022). Senior Women’s Mess Kit capsule collection.. New Zealand
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2021). Operational Hijab (Commercialized garments) Corrections Department. New Zealand: Corrections Department
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2021). Operational Hijab (Commercialized garments). New Zealand
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2021). Operational Hijab (Design, pattern, and prototype design lease for European manufacture) Home Office UK. United Kingdom
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2020). NZ Police Operational Hijab. New Zealand
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2018). Unified Uniform Project :Design uniform consultancy.
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & McQuillan, H. (2018). zero+one ( 3 coat designs: 4 printed pattern images, booklet). ODASA Building, Adelaide: Unmaking Waste Conference, University of South Australia GPO Box 2471, Adelaide South Australia 5001
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2016). oneP-active. Massey University Te Ara Hihiko Building, Wellington, New Zealand: End of Fashion Conference
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2016). Nature, energy and movement for new apparel design. Te Ara Hihiko, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand: Costume and Textile Association New Zealand
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2015). Earthlink Upcycled Childrenswear. Wingate, Lower Hutt, Wellington
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2014). Flight. One-oh-Eight Gallery, Ironbank Building, Auckland, New Zealand: Shapeshifting Conference, Auckland University of Technology
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Weaver, N. (2014). oneP-wings. Southwark Cathedral London, United Kingdom: Global Wool Collections Interior Exhibition
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2014). Earthlink childrenswear pattern development. Wingate, Lower Hutt, Wellington
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Whitty, J. (2014). Earthlink Childrens' wear Design Consultancy. Earthlink Incorporated, Wingate, Lower Hutt, Wellington
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Whitty, J. (2014). Earthlink childrenswear Design consultancy. Wingate, Lower Hutt, Wellington
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., & Whitty, J. (2013). Earthlink childrenswear design consultancy. Wingate, Lower Hutt, Wellington
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D., Prescott, S., Imlach, ME., & Hemera, R. (2013). Massey University Principal Officers Academic Regalia. Bruce Mason Centre, Auckland, New Zealand: Massey University
[Design]Authored by: Cumming, D.

Conference

Cumming, D., & Brimer, C.(2024, August). Wayfaring: Cloth & Coat. . Retreived from https://costumeandtextile.nz/social-fabric-symposium-speaker-news/
[Conference]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2019, March). Transitioning the new:creative pattern cutting. Presented at Fluid Fashion Symposium. Dunedin Art Gallery, Dunedin.
[Conference Oral Presentation]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2015). Earthlink: Upcycling corporate to children’s apparel. Unmaking Waste 2015 conference proceedings. (pp. 628 - 636). : Unmaking Waste: Transforming production and consumption in time and place
[Conference Paper in Published Proceedings]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Cumming, D. (2015, April). One piece one body. Presented at Context of Fashion: Materiality and the Body Conference. Dunedin, New Zealand.
[Conference Oral Presentation]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Balasubramanian, R., Cumming, DM., Webster, J., & Peter, R. (2014, December). Consumer Perspectives of the Second-hand Apparel Market in New Zealand - An Exploratory Study. Presented at Australian and New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference. Brisbane.
[Conference Oral Presentation]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Balasubramanian, R., Cumming, DM., Webster, J., & Peter, R. (2014). Consumer perspectives of the second-hand apparel market in New Zealand - an exploratory study. Proceedings ANZMAC Annual Conference 2014. (pp. 346 - 352). Brisbane, Australai: Australian and New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference
[Conference Paper in Published Proceedings]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Balasubramanian, R., Cumming, D., Webster, J., & Peter, R. (2014). Consumer perspectives of the second-hand apparel market in New Zealand - an exploratory study. In RT. Sharyn, K. Krzysztof, & A. Denni (Eds.) Proceedings ANZMAC Annual Conference 2014. (pp. 346 - 352). Brisbane, Australia: Australian and New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference
[Conference Paper in Published Proceedings]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Webster, J., Cumming, D., Balasubramanian, R., & Peter, R. (2012). Second-hand clothing market in New Zealand: An exploratory study of retailer perspectives. In R. Lee (Ed.) Australia New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference 2012 Proceedings. (pp. 1 - 7). Australia: Australian and New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference [ANZMAC 2012]: Sharing the Cup of Knowledge
[Conference Paper in Published Proceedings]Authored by: Cumming, D.
Balasubramanian, R., Webster, J., Cumming, D., & Peter, R. (2012). Second-hand clothing market in New Zealand – An exploratory study of retailer perspectives. Australian & New Zealand marketing Academy 2012 Proceedings. (pp. 1 - 7). Ehrenberg-Bass Institute for Marketing Science: Australian and New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference
[Conference Paper in Published Proceedings]Authored by: Cumming, D.

Consultancy and Languages

Consultancy

  • 2021- current - New Zealand Police
    Designs for uniform
  • 2018-2019 - Fire and Emergency NZ
    Unified uniform project
  • 2013-2015 - Earthlink
    Social firm upcycling corporate apparel to children wear

Teaching and Supervision

Summary of Doctoral Supervision

Position Current Completed
Co-supervisor 6 2

Current Doctoral Supervision

Co-supervisor of:

  • Ying Luo - Doctor of Philosophy
    Designing with Sustainable Material Alternatives to Leather
  • Naduni Hewawelege - Doctor of Philosophy
    Designing Activewear for Gender Inclusion and Diversity
  • Dongdong Zhang - Doctor of Philosophy
    Exploring Chinese Fashion Designers’ Well-being and the Creative Benefits Gained through Generative Design Tools
  • Hongyi Xiao - Doctor of Philosophy
    Multi-Form Garment Design: Exploring Inclusive Fit, Multifunctional Wear, and Material Alterations for Dynamic Body Compatibility and human demand
  • Yitong Zheng - Doctor of Philosophy
    Speculative Virtual Fashion: Adaptive Clothing Related to Global Climate Change
  • Rekha Shailaj - Doctor of Philosophy
    Constructing new from old: the zero-waste method within a hierarchial fashion system

Completed Doctoral Supervision

Co-supervisor of:

  • 2025 - Zewei Li - Doctor of Philosophy
    Mobius Band: Establishing Motion Trajectory Techniques to Form Woven Apparel in a Dynamic 3D Space
  • 2022 - ~ Shaik Areef - Doctor of Philosophy
    Slot n’ Slide - A Concept Design for a Life Jacket for Flood Events in India

Media and Links

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